Author: Darren Enns

Who in the world would have pet worms? Someone who keeps their worms after a fishing trip! There is no reason to dispose of the worms that you do not use. They are simple to care for and the next time you go fishing you will have a lot more worms than what you came home with. This is because worms left to their own devices multiply quickly. If you only have a half a dozen left then store them in the refrigerator. If you want to save money, then store them in a worm box outside and watch them populate. I’ve done it and so can you. I’ll explain how. 

So what do you feed your fishing worms? There are a few options to choose from; powdered worm food, damp coffee grounds or fruit and veggie scraps. Use your blender on the fruits and veggies to break them up into smaller pieces and then sprinkle the scraps on the top of the worm box. Avoid citrus, meat, onions and dairy. The worms will avoid them and they will eventually rot in the bin. One of their favorite treats, just lay a soft piece of bread on top of the moist soil. The next time you lift up a corner of the bread they will be piled up underneath it.

Is writing about the outdoors or fishing something that you think you would like to do? It’s possible to make income by doing so. If you are interested check out this link to see how I do it.

I will cover more in depth the who, what, when, where, and why’s of what to feed your fishing worms. We will cover how to make your own worm bin, how often to feed your worms and many other interesting facts about taking care of fishing worms.  

How to Take Care of my Fishing Worms

Here are the top three ways to keep your fishing worms alive and what food to feed them. 

1. Keep worms in the refrigerator. This works best if you have less than a dozen worms left. But they will have to be used within a month’s time. 
2. Place worms in a styrofoam container. If your worms came in a decent container then you will not need to transfer them. If you do transfer them make sure to move all the soil and any shredded paper that came in the original container. 
3. Feed your worms once a week (this varies, depending on who you talk to). You can sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons of used coffee grounds into the container, but make sure they are damp. You can also sprinkle a couple of teaspoons of powdered worm food over the top of the worms. This can be found in most bait and tackle shops or on Amazon.

How to Make a Worm Bed

Worm beds are larger versions of a worm bin. You can find worm bins at most gardening centers but they will be pretty small. A worm bed is actually something you construct in your yard. This will give you large earthworms and excellent compost. 

There are tons of creative worm bed ideas all over the internet. You can use large plastic bins, styrofoam coolers, or even a large fish aquarium. But the ultimate way to make a worm bed is to dig it right in the ground. You can make it as large as you like, just start digging. You can make it square or rectangle shaped. Once you have the pit done, line it with cardboard and use wooden boards up the sides. You then need to shred and moisten any old newspapers you have lying around. Make a large, fluffy layer in the bottom of the pit. This makes the bedding for the worms. Next you add the worm, soil, and food scraps. Now, just sit back and allow the worms to turn it into rich soil and compost, as well as multiply like crazy. Throw a soaked piece of cardboard in there as you layer the paper and dirt. The worms love the corrugations in the cardboard and will use the tiny holes to lay eggs. One egg could hatch 9 baby worms in a few weeks and you’ll have worms in perpetuity.

**Tip: keep the worm bed moist or your worms will dry out and die**

Feeding Instructions

A full functioning worm bin will have about 6.5 pounds of compost worms. Uneaten food should not be more than 5cm deep. They prefer to eat their food before decomposition sets in. If not eaten before then, it will affect the life cycle of the worms and operation of the worm bin. 

Start by feeding the worms a small amount of food each day. Worms can normally eat their own body weight in food. Slowly increase the amount you feed the worms as the population begins to grow. Building up a decent population can take approximately 3 months to accomplish. To take care of rotting scraps, you may need to gently mix a small amount of fibrous material into the top food layer.

How do Worms Reproduce

Worms will join together with their heads in opposite directions. Sperm is then passed from one worm to the other and is stored in sacs. A cocoon then forms on each of them, on the clitellum. Worms can and will double in population every 60 days and the breeding cycle takes 27 days from mating to the laying of the eggs. That is a lot of worms every other month!

What do Worms Need to Survive

This is an expansion of the beginning of the article. Major research uncovers hidden gems. Worms will eat dead plants, live plants, animal poop, and other microscopic animals. They also do not mind eggshells if you use your blender and grind them into powder to sprinkle atop the soil. Food, moisture, and oxygen are all that worms require to survive. Check the soil everyday to make sure it stays moist, but try not to get it too wet. 

Moist soil ensures that the worms can breath. Oxygen from the water in the ground actually passes through a worms skin, keeping it alive. So worms do not actually drink anything, but will eat a wide variety of items. 

Make your Own Worm Food (worm food recipe, so to speak)

Fruits, vegetables, grains, and cereals are just a few of the many options you have. They also need organic items, like tea bags and cardboard. If you choose to, you can mix everything in the blender. Otherwise just cut it into small pieces, and as it breaks down in the soil the worms will eat Newspaper or some kind of bedding will keep the bin dark, so the worms do not get confused and it also keeps the fruit flies at bay. Not only do the worms eat the organic materials they also use it to live in/under. Worms do not have a particular feeding schedule. You can feed them once a week, every 2-3 days, or once a day and they will thrive and multiply.

Worms do not have teeth and because of this, they need a little grit in their diet. You can use crushed oyster shells or rock dust as their source of grit. Or, you can simply use egg shells, which everyone usually has. 

Do not feed your fishing worms meat, poultry, fish, dairy. Proteins attract different rodents. Junk food, such as chips, candy, or oils will attract ants. Oranges, lemons, and limes are toxic to worms because of the citric acid. Definitely never ever put any biodegradable material in the worm bin. 

If you do not have enough scraps for the worm bin, because some of it goes to other animals, cornmeal is the perfect solution. Sprinkle 2-4 tablespoons onto the soil and it will satisfy the fishing worms just fine. 

How to Grow Fishing Worms as Bait

If you fish very consistently with worms, then growing your own will be very beneficial to you. You don’t have to spend money on bait anymore and you get amazing compost for your plants and/or garden.

There are actually 3 types of fishing worms

• Mealworms
• Red worms (red wigglers)
• European Night Crawlers (super reds)

You decide which type of worm best suites your fishing style and needs. Most anglers prefer the mealworms for panfishing, the red worms for other edible fish, and the Europeans for the bigger fish (such as catfish, walleye, and largemouth bass).

Mealworms

Live mealworms can last up to nine months and can be used in various ways; in pastes and mixes, as live loose bait, or hair rigged just to name a few examples. There are different opinions on whether they are dead or alive. It is kind of a balancing act to keep them alive but NOT maturing. If they mature they will turn into Darkling Beetles. 

European Night Crawlers

This type of worm is fat and juicy, making it hard for most fish to resist. They are easy to cultivate, very active, and can grow to be four to five inches long.

Here is a brief checklist on composting/growing the European Night Crawler

1. The location can not be too warm nor too cold.
2. Build or buy a bin, making sure it has air and drainage holes and a lid
3. Order super reds online
4. Set up the bedding. If you DIY the bin, pure peat moss makes extraordinary bedding
5. Put the worms on the bed and allow them to dig in
6. Feed them 2-4 times a week.

Every 3-6 months you will want to harvest material from the bin for your plants or garden. 

Red Worms

These are smaller than the European night crawlers, but they still make exceptional bait. For these red worms you will basically be following the same process as above for setting up the bin, but it is suggested that you purchase tray-based worm bins. These make it easier to harvest the humus (worm poop). Everything else about harvesting is exactly the same has it is for the European Night Crawlers 

There you have it folks, the ins and outs and dos and don’ts of feeding your fishing worms, making your fishing bin, and what not to feed your fishing worms. It will save you money, because you won’t have to purchase worms when you want to head out and go fishing. Heck, you could even package and sell the soil and sell the worms and make a little bit of money. Who doesn’t like money!?

Whatever you choose to do, there is an abundance of information and already packaged worm food and worms to get you started and to keep you going. Worms could possibly be one of the easiest ‘pets’ to take care of, and as a bonus you get awesome plants/garden fruits and vegetables from the compost that the worms help produce. 

Today we are going to talk about fishing reels. We will tell you about the 3 main reels, discuss freshwater and saltwater reels, and cover whether or not your reel can get wet. If your reel does get wet, what are the consequences or best ways to handle it. 

Have you ever had one of those reels that gets dunked or dropped in the water and gets sand in it? Then it feels like a pepper grinder when you reel it? Ewwww…

For the most part, fishing reels were made to get wet occasionally, however if you are fishing in salt water it’s a good idea to rinse your reel with fresh clean water in an effort to get the salt off. This will make your equipment last longer and protect it from rust. It’s also recommended to lubricate your reels more often if they are getting wet.

There are 3 main reels on the market today. We are going to cover some basic information on each one for you.

1. Spinning Reel, also known as an open face reel. These are my favorite by far! These reels are the most popular, easy to cast, and are more accurate. You can cast farther with the spinning reel than you can with the closed-face reel. Here you have good line capacity, which allows you to have more line than other reels. There is also an extra spool making it easier to change out your line on the water. The spinning reel is great for light lures and the line flows freely. These reels are recommended for experienced anglers, though they are pretty easy for a beginner to learn to use. Spinning reels are not recommended for heavy test line and they are one of the more expensive reels. 
2. Baitcasting Reel is the most advanced of the 3 reels that we are discussing today. Many Bass fishermen use them. I’m not too good with them though. You need a lot more skill and practice to effectively use a baitcasting reel. These are frequently used by professional anglers at tournaments. As the line is released the spool will rotate. The baitcasting reel has the most accuracy, distance and is the most expensive. This reel offers a fast and powerful retrieve and is ideal in catching the bigger, heavier, and harder fighting fish. There is one con to using a baitcasting reel; they are prone to tangled lines and backlash.
3. Spin-casting Reel, also known as the closed face reel has all of the components enclosed under a nose cone. In the center of the cover is a hole, where the line comes out. To cast, all you do is push the button on the back of the reel, throw out the line and just before it hits the water you release the button. The spin-caster is best for kids and beginners to learn with as there is no backlash or tangled lines to worry about. It is also the least expensive of the 3 reels. 

The difference between freshwater and saltwater also determines whether or not you can/should or shouldn’t let your reel get wet. You can actually divide reels into categories of freshwater or saltwater:

• Saltwater is brutal on metal, therefore saltwater reels are usually made from stainless steel and other parts that are non-corroding. But even after long periods of time, these reels will show some damage.
• Freshwater reels will get corroded and damaged with any kind of saltwater contact. You can help prevent this by rinsing your reel with freshwater as soon as you can after a fishing trip, but this is no way a long term solution.

Sometimes when the water is quiet you can almost hear the fish laughing at you...

Saltwater reels are more expensive, but if you can afford it, it is highly recommended. This ensures that you can fish anywhere that you want to go, whether it is freshwater or saltwater. Otherwise you need two seperate poles or you can risk using your reel in saltwater and replacing it fairly often. 

If you are fishing in freshwater, it is not going to hurt your reel to get wet. The salt in saltwater is what eats at the material that your reel is constructed of. But it is advised to dry off/out your reel is it is completely submerged in water.

There are five main differences between saltwater and freshwater reels:

1. Materials used – freshwater reels are made with more simple metals and work fine for fishing strictly in freshwater. Saltwater reels are constructed of tough metals and alloys that can withstand the corrosion of saltwater, because they are coated with a protective sealant. 
2. Sealed components – this includes bearing, drag systems, gear boxes, and other pieces. These are not as vulnerable to saltwater corrosion. The seals function like gaskets on a car and they keep the saltwater from reaching the inner working parts.
3. Line & lure – Saltwater are designed for heavier line and bigger lures, where as the freshwater reels normally run 4 pound test line and ⅛ to ½ ounce lures. There is a little bit of a cross over between the 2, but it mostly pertains to the lures/bait that you are using. You can’t get too heavy on 4 pound test, but you can’t be too light on a saltwater line that is 12+ test. 
4. Cost – Saltwater reels are going to be quite a bit more expensive than a freshwater reel because of the pieces/parts used to make them. So, invest in a saltwater reel that you will still be using in ten or fifteen years instead of replacing your reel every single fishing season. 
5. Reel types – freshwater anglers most generally use the spinner reel, spin-casting, or baitcasting reel. Saltwater fishermen use a different reel depending on the fishing situation.

Unless your reel is made of wood, paper, or another water soluble material, it is not going to harm anything if it gets dunked or dropped into the freshwater. Just make sure you dry it as well as you can when you get home. You can also lay them out in the open air to help dry any extra moisture. 

So fear not, if you have your younger children with you and they let go of the whole pole when they cast or they freak out when they get a fish and let go. It is not going to damage the reel to get wet. But you may have to replace a pole if the fish runs away with it. 

I hope we have covered all you wanted and needed to know about saltwater and freshwater reels. When you go in to buy your reel, make sure it is a great fit for your pole. There are some combinations that are not very compatible. When you are saltwater/deep water fishing you definitely want a stronger rod, so that you are not replacing them continuously.
As always, Happy Fishing!

Monofilament, Flurocarbon, and Braided are the main types of fishing line that anglers use. But do you know what each is made of? Do you know if you can be cut by the fishing line you have on your pole? We are going to delve into this topic today. I will talk a little it about each kind of line, what it is made of, can it cut you, and how to protect your hands/fingers from being cut. I like mono cause it’s cheap…

Monofilament – made from a single fiber of plastic, making this type of fishing line cheaper to produce and therefore cheaper for us to purchase. It comes in a wide variety of diameters and test strengths. Mono is the most popular fishing line because it is very affordable. This type of fishing line is not recommended for deep water fishing because it absorbs water. The absorbing of the water will loosen the knots and decrease the sensitivity. The plastic used is strong and flexible and can be dyed many different colors or left as clear fishing line. Mono line is easy to handle, works well in many situations, easier to cast, and flexible. By the way all my reels are wound with mono.

Flurocarbon – this is the most expensive type of fishing line on the shelves. Virtually invisible underwater with very little stretch, leads to better hook-sets. This line is more abrasion resistant and has more memory than other fishing line, like Mono. Flurocarbon is stiffer and less likely to tangle, but dense enough to sink. This makes for excellent trolling and spinning lures. 

Braided Line – this is smaller in diameter compared to Mono. Used mostly in heavy forage areas because of its high strength and abrasion resistance. This was one of the earliest types of fishing line to be manufactured. Braided fishing line has incredible knot strength, lack of stretch, and superb power in relation to its diameter. One drawback of braided line, fish can see it in the water! Constructed of man-made material like Spectra or Micro-Dyneema (which we will cover in more detail). Braided line has so much strength that anglers have considerable trouble breaking it when their line is snagged.

Now that we have provided you with some of the basic information on the three types of fishing line, it is time to answer the question; can fishing line cut you? That depends on what type of fishing line you are using. Modern fishing line are mostly made from artificial substances:

• Nylon
• Polyvinylidene fluoride
• PVDF (flurocarbon)
• Polyethylene

Dacron is a fiber produced by DuPont, and is the registered name for polyester fiber.

Dyneema is considered the world’s strongest fiber and is used to prevent rope failure. Dyneema is 15 times stronger than steel and is made from Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE).

Spectra is tiny filaments of super strong material. When braided together you get a thin but amazingly strong fishing line.

The three materials listed above is what braided fishing line can consist of. There are many companies out there that make fishing line. It is going to be your duty to try some of them out and decide which brand and style is your favorite. You can research them on the internet, look at the reviews and ratings or you can just do it by trial and error. The line that you purchase also needs to correspond with the fish you are trying to catch. You don’t want to use 4 pound test if  you are deep water fishing for a HUGE catfish. 

Thin Mono and wet fingers can be cut, but braided fishing line can easily cut to the bone. If you do not know how or have never used braided line then it is highly recommended that you don’t use it without some kind of protection. Otherwise you can easily cut off the tip of one of your fingers. 

Some suggestions to protect your hands and fingers;

• Gloves
• Medical/hockey tape (NOT electrical tape)
• Finger guards

Gloves work, unless you do a lot of surf casting, then they wear out quickly. Medical/hockey tape is inexpensive and works amazingly. The finger guard is made from a piece of leather with a flexible material on the outside. The finger guards can be found at most bait and tackle shops and they are reasonably priced. It protects your finger and is flexible, whereas the tape is not going to be as flexible as you need it to be. 

One avid angler high recommended KT tape. It is a little bit more expensive than medical or hockey tape but it is flexible and works the best out of all finger protectants. This can be found at any pharmacy or retail stores, such as WalMart, in the first aid section. 

So, we have answered the unknown question; can fishing line cut you? Yes, especially braided fishing line. So please make sure whether you have fished with braided fishing line or not, you use finger protection. No one wants you to have to get a bunch of stitches or be missing the tip of your finger. Fishing is a fun, relaxing, memory making sport that the whole family will love. Let’s not get seriously hurt while doing something that everyone loves to do.

“Be careful of broken people. Their sharp edges may cut you.”
― nickiesha reid

I hope that I have given you the best information on what finger protectants to use, the details of fishing line and what it is made of. Please make sure you are safe and careful when you are out fishing. Have fun making memories with your family and friends and as always, Happy Fishing! 

If you are fishing from shore, a bridge, or a dock and plan on keeping what you catch, then get a fish stringer. (unless you are like me, then you might not need one…LOL) You can also use them if you are fishing from a boat that doesn’t have a live well. You can purchase or make them yourself. We will give you some background on fish stringers, what they are, where to buy them, and supplies you need to make them on your own. Let’s get started!

 “If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there’d be a shortage of fishing poles,” Doug Larson.

Types of fishing stringers

According to Wikipedia, the definition of a fish stringer is; a line of rope or chain along which a fisherman can string fish so they can be kept alive in water. There are 2 general types of fish stringers; a rope stringer or a chain stringer. Which type is best for your stringer of fish?

Chain Stringer

A chain stringer has safety-pin type snaps along the length of the chain and are used to clip onto the fish. The fish stay immersed in the water until you are done for the day. We will cover a little more on chain stringers in a little bit. 

Rope Stringer

A rope stringer is the easiest type or form. It is made from rope or wire with a stringing needle made of metal or hardwood at one end. (these are the type I use now cause they are easy. When I wasyounger I used the chain ones.) You use the needle to thread the stringer through the gills of the fish. The other end usually has a wire ring that secures the stringer in the dirt. 

How many times we took off in the boat only to remember  the stringer dangling overboard..FishinMoney

There are hundreds of styles of fish stringers on the market. Some of them are simple and affordable and some of them are fairly expensive. It all depends on the types of materials used to construct the fish stringer. The heavier weight stringers are going to be more expensive. We are going to take a look at a couple fish stringers that you can purchase from several online stores. 

“Early to bed…early to rise…fish all day…make up lies,” Author Unknown.

Paracord stringer

Made by Paracord Planet; 10 foot, 550 pound Paracord Stringer Fish Holder. Very affordable with a metal ring and metal threading needle. It is available in 12 colors and is under ten dollars. The needle has a blunt sharp eds, making it easier to stick into the ground or thread through the fish. With the paracord fish stringer  you won’t have to worry about any metal clanking on the side of the boat and scaring away the other fish. It is perfect for shore fishing, wading, or fishing from the dock.

Also available online is the JSHANMEI Clip Lock Fish Stringer. This one is made with metal wire and has 5 clips/snaps. It also has a stainless steel fish buckle, fish barrel swivel, superior quality stainless steel rubber covered soft steel wire, alloy ground support stand, and a mountaineering buckle. The snaps on the fish stringer are 5.5 inches long and the widest point is 1.8 inches. The wire rope length is 19.6 feet  and also comes in at under $10. 

Heavy Duty Fish Stringers

On the more expensive side of fish stringers, there is the RLQ Heavy Duty Fish Stringer. This comes in 2 colors and 2 sizes; silver or green and 60# or 70#. The 60# stringer is 6 meters in length and the 70# is 7 meters in length. This stringer has 5 clips, a hollow reel, and is easy to handle and store. Use the fish block on this stringer with clams, this helps to keep the fish alive while you continue fishing. The hollow reel reduces the drag and is flexible and smooth. This particular fish stringer comes in at over fifty dollars.

“I spent most of my money on fishing. The rest I wasted,” Author Unknown.

If you are a DIY type of person, then there are plenty of options out there for you as well. You can use metal, paracord, rope (nylon) or even an old dog leash to make a homemade fish stringer. These DIY fish stringers were found by doing an internet search. These are not our creations or projects, but the ones we found and thought that you may want to try. 

DIY Fish Stringers

This first DIY project was found on spearboard.com. It seems pretty easy, but not sure if the directions are as clear as they could be. Drill a hold in a piece of metal, about 6-8 inches long. If you know how to rig a speargun then you know what to do with this. Get some wire and a crimping tool and crimp it up. Otherwise you could get a beat up wire hanger, make an eye in the middle and tie off to it. 

“You say I`m a compulsive fishing freak like it’s a bad thing,” Author Unknown.

As I said, not super explanatory, but if you know what a speargun is and does, then you are going to be able to create this fish stringer fairly easy.

The next one seems easy enough, only containing 8 steps to complete. It was discovered on tackleunderground.com.

1. Get cord and wire that is 16-18 gauge
2. Find a nail or something that is just a touch smaller than the cord or wire 
3. Wrap the wire around the nail 5-10 times, try to make it as uniform as you can
4. Feed the cord through the wire loops that you just made
5. Cut the rope diagonally to create a sharp point
6. Push the sharp point through the cord from the bottom up
7. Burn the cord on each end and squash it flat
8. Crimp the last wrap on the cord. 

There are also hundreds of videos on YouTube that will walk you through, step by step, on how to make a fish stringer. Some of the videos are by professional or very seasoned anglers and some of them are produced by everyday people like you and I who love to share their ideas and insights with the world. 

As stated before, you can use paracord, wire, rope, and other materials. You can make them as easy and light or as heavy as you wish, depending on what kind of fish you are going to be catching and stringing. The videos are very easy to follow and when you are done you will have the perfect fish stringer and it will be time to hit the lake and catch some fish.

I hope you have provided you with the information that you desire in order to purchase or DIY your own fish stringer. You can use these to keep fish immersed in water, until you are ready to let them go or take them home and fry them up for dinner. There are tons out there to purchase, a bunch of DIY projects all over the internet, and many materials that you can use to make the fish stringers, even recycled materials that you may have laying around your home. 

So, lets get those materials and get to making a fish stringer! Happy Fishing and Be Safe. 

One of the worst things that could happen on one of your fishing trips is your rod joints sticking. What causes this? How do you prevent it from happening? How do you fix the sticking joints? These are some questions that we are going to answer for you today. There are always other ways and other opinions than what we provide you, so you may have friends, family, or a mentor that will have some ideas that we do not cover here.

“Work is for people who don’t know how to fish!” Author Unknown.

A joint (or ferrule) is an important part of your fishing rod. They are narrow rings, usually made of metal, and they prevent the end of a handle or stick from wearing out or breaking. There is a male and a female joint (ferrule) on every rod that is made, as long as it is 2 pieces. When you put your rod together you should have a 0.5cm – 1cm gap. The best way to put your rod together is slowly twist it together. Never shove or try to ram it together.

The main reasons for the sticking joints on your fishing rod are dirt, sand, excessive saltwater, and other debris. To keep your joints from sticking, your best bet and the most recommended solution is to clean your pole after every trip especially if you mostly fish in saltwater. Make sure that you store it in a clean, dry place; preferably covered. 

There are many reasons why your joints can stick, as we mentioned above, and there are just as many ways to get them apart. Some are recommended, some are highly disagreed with, some work and some do not work. You could put 20 fishermen in a room and they would all have a different solution to fishing rod joints that are stuck. There is no real right or wrong way to get them unstuck. It is going to be trial and error. What works for you may not work for the next guy, and visa versa. Let’s get into a little more detail on the things that are making the joints stick on your fishing rod.

Excessive water, heat, and saltwater can expand the male section of your rod overtime and cause them to swell a bit and get ‘stuck’ together. A small grain of dirt or sand, salt, or any other debris that gets into the joints will make them tough to get apart at the end of the season. 

“Even a fish wouldn’t get into trouble if he kept his mouth shut,” Author Unknown.

Let us now talk about a few of the ways that you can get your fishing rod joints unstuck. 

One of the first things that most people do is try to pull their rod apart. A lot of fishermen keep some kind of pads or rubber gloves in their tackle box just for this issue. Be very careful how hard and what direction you pull because your pole could bend or twist in the wrong direction and crack or even break.

If pulling alone doesn’t work, you may need to tag team the issue with a friend. Kind of like playing tug-of-war. Avoid the eyelets (guides) to ensure they do not get broken off. To try to unstick your joints with a friend; both of you need to put a hand on each side of the joint (as you would if you were working alone). This gives you double the pull power on both sides of the rod. Some fishermen will tell you that this is the worst way to get your rod apart. Because the pole will not be pulled apart completely straight and more times than not you are going to end up with a broken rod. Especially if it is a light spinning rod or a fly fishing rod. 

“There are two types of fisherman – those who fish for sport and those who fish for fish,” Author Unknown.

Some anglers have tried the hot/cold method and swear by it. Many will heat up the “female” side of the rod (joint) in an attempt to make it swell or expand, allowing you to easily remove the male joint. This has worked for a few fishermen, but it may not be quite enough for your fishing rod. 

You can give WD-40 a shot. Let it soak into the 2 joints for a few minutes and you may be able to slide your rod apart. This is the least risky way to conquer stuck joints, but it doesn’t seem to have a very good success rate. 

The next method that some anglers attempt is to cool down both sides of the joints, believing it will loosen the rod. Some of the easy ways to accomplish this; place a bag of ice (or a bag of frozen veggies) around the joint, or leaving your rod outside on a cooler night. As with the other suggestions, this has worked for some but not for others. 

Once you get your rod unstuck, be sure to clean out both joints very well. Depending on how often you go fishing and how often you fish in saltwater, you are going to want to clean your pole on a regular basis. We are going to give you a few ways to lubricate your rod, and ways to transport and store your rods at the end of the season to prolong the joints from getting stuck. 

Some of these are going to seem a bit odd, but they are said to work, by many fishermen. One of the ways to lubricate the male joint is to run the joint up and down on the side of your nose, or threw your hair a few times. Odd? Yes! But the natural oils in our skin and hair are the perfect lubricant for your rod joints. It will make the rod slide together easily and come apart just as easy. 

“‘Carpe Diem,’ does not mean ‘fish of the day,’” Author Unknown.

The ultimate way to lubricate your fishing rod joints is to use ferrule wax, which comes with the purchase of some fishing rods. You can also use a candle and run it along and around the male joint for lubrication before you slide the joints into place. 

Here are some tips to care for your fishing rods, how to transport them safely, clean them at the end of the fishing season, and the best way to store them in the winter. 

General Care:

• Never hang lures or hooks from the guides (eyelets). This can scratch the surface of the guides and believe it or not affect your casting. It can also cause issues with your line, if the guide isn’t changed right away.
• Do not let your lures bang on the tip of your rod by reeling it in all the way. 
• Never strike your rod on or against something strong or hard. 
• Do not ‘high stick’ or lift the rod past a 90 degree angle when fighting a fish on the line.

Transporting your rods:

• Do not set or lay anything heavy on them
• Keep rods and tackle/other fishing equipment separate
• Do not store them, while transporting, where they will be in straight UV light for long periods of time

You want to transport your rods carefully. This prevents any debris from accumulating in or around the joints. Laying something heavy on the pole can weaken the joints. Keeping all your equipment separated will keep the rod and guides from getting any kind of abrasion damage. Humidity is also a huge factor in your fishing rod joints sticking.

“Nothing makes a fish bigger than almost being caught,” Author Unknown.

Cleaning your rod:

• You want to wash the rod with hot soapy water and allow it to dry completely.
• Clean the joints well. Wipe down the male ferrule and apply a little bit of wax or other lubricant. Take a Q-tip and clean out the inside of the female joint, making sure there is no dust, dirt, or debris left behind. 
• Check all of your guides for scratches, and replace them on the spot. Scratches in guides could cause issues with your line, like snagging and even breaking. 

Storing your rods:

• DO NOT lean the rod against the wall or in a corner against the wall. Overtime, this will cause an unwanted bend in your rod.
• DO use some kind of rack to lye your poles on, keeping them up off of the ground to avoid being kicked or stepped on. 

There you have it, my fellow anglers. Why fishing rod joints stick, ways to get the fishing rod joints unstuck and things to do to prevent it from happening in the future. I hope this was a successful and helpful article for you and I hope that this never happens to you, as it can be a terrible situation. Unfortunately if none of the suggestions work, and none of your friends/family have any solutions or suggestions, you are going to be stuck spending money and buying a new rod. Just remember, depending on how often you go fishing and how often you fish in saltwater, that will determine how often you should take your pole apart and clean it. Getting on dirt, dust, debris and salt out of the joints. Until next time, happy fishing!